The rule of thumb for slab thickness is 1/10 th the width. ![]() If this is the case, you may need to slab off one side, then turn the log 90 degrees to slab it. One of the issues you may run into is the width of the log may exceed the capacity of your sawmill. It yields the widest possible boards and provides natural edges for woodworkers who build custom pieces. Slab sawing is the simplest pattern-just mill the log about half way down, flip it over and finish the other half. The advantage of sawing for pattern is it gives the owner the opportunity to “bookmatch” boards to give tabletops and other large surfaces mirror-image symmetrical grain patterns. You should balance out the desire for character with the need to keep splits and rot in as few boards as possible. Note, “character” is not always the same as “defect”. Look for the side of the cant with the most interesting pattern and mill this side until the pattern runs out, then turn the cant to find the next side with the most desirable pattern. Sawing for pattern is the same, in principle, as sawing for grade. If the customer is a woodworker who wants “character” boards, you should consider sawing for pattern. This pattern is most useful for lumber to be sold to cabinet shops, flooring mills and other end uses, where grade is important. On the downside, all of the log turning takes extra time and effort, especially on manual sawmills. There are also many variations to cutting patterns depending on the log and the end use of the lumber. However, sawing comes down to 6 basic log sawing patterns: rift sawing, plain (or flat) sawing, grade sawing, sawing for character, slabbing and quarter sawing. ![]() To add to the kerfuffle, some of the terms are contradictory. Often the disagreement comes because they use different terms to describe exactly the same procedures. It may be easier in the long run to cut them flush with the legs before cutting the joints, I was just making it as I went along.Ask any four sawyers the best way to cut a log and you’ll likely get at least a dozen different opinions. At this point I didn't know whether or not I was going to keep the straight parts longer as I thought it may add more rigidity to the piece, I did however in the end decide to cut them flush with the legs. After that you just need to repeat the process of making the joints and then sit them inside each other. Once you've cut the lap joints in the legs you can then sit the straight pieces inside and mark where the lap joints will go as seen in the pic above. Try not to break through to the other side of the joint, when you're ready to chip out the other side, turn the wood around in the vice and start from the other side. ![]() It's best to start your chisel a bit up from your cut line and to angle it upwards as seen in the photo, taking away a little at a time. This helps the wood chip out easier when you start to use the chisel and helps to prevent too much wood breaking away inside the joint. After that it's advisable to make 3 cuts parallel to the outer cuts. After that you take the legs and draw the lap joints half way down the side of each of the legs as seen in the photos.Ĭutting lap joints is a fairly simple process, after you've marked them out you need to make your first two saw cuts down the side of each joint. When everything is lined up, all that's needs to be done is mark on the legs where the straight parts will sit. ![]() Once you have those roughly in place you then have to measure down each leg to make sure the straight parts are an even distance from each other, The top straight piece was 6cm (2 3/8") down from the top of the inside of the legs, the space between the two straight parts is 12cm (4 3/4"), this is where the log will sit. I'm sure there's many different designs to look at though. On the other hand making the legs too close to each other will make the device less stable, so you have to find a middle ground there. The angle of the legs is entirely up to you though I think making them angled too far out would make your log closer to the ground and so there'd be less room for your saw to move. I made the two legs 65cm (25 9/16") long each and then laid the first straight piece along them where I wanted it to be joined.
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